DIY Automatic Tool Changer for MPCNC : 21 Steps (with Pictures) - jenkinsenswer
Introduction: DIY Automatic Joyride Record changer for MPCNC
This machinelike tool changer is specific to the Largely Printed CNC, or MPCNC and dissimilar nigh tool changers, the mechanism replaces the intact router sooner than attempting to switch unsuccessful only the cutting bit. IT is mechanically more than simpler to swap the intact router than to develop a system that can exchange the bit within a collet chuck that was not designed for machine-controlled changing.
Swapping routers incurs some additional price, since multiple routers must be purchased, but treble inexpensive spindles are still cheaper than a professional tool-dynamic solution. In addition, information technology allows switching 'tween vastly different tools. In hypothesis it would be possible to have a router, solder paste extruder, vacuum woof and place, and heat gun wholly in one machine.
This intent is made to fit the latest MPCNC Primo of the "J" variety which uses 1" (25.4 millimetre) OD tubes. This Instructable assumes you already suffer a working Best "J" machine and like to ADHD an robotlike tool changer.
This tool changer uses a similar conception as the E3D tool changer scheme, which is also used in the Jubilee tool around changing 3D political platform. The primary difference is that two cleats are used instead of one, and stiffer preload springs allow a stronger grip on the tool. Another major project destination is to require no curious small hardware from McMaster-Carr, rather using sole parts that can Be found topically (in the US) or tattily from Amazon.
This is an advanced send off that is apt to require substantial problem-solving to get working. There are probably many failure modes that I am not aware of, and that this maneuver does non counter.
As a matter of safety, never leave your DIY CNC machine unattended. Fires potty start extremely chop-chop. What's the point of an automatic tool changer if you let to babysit the machine anyway? Automatic tool changes are unmoving easier than manual ones, even if it is not unattended.
Complete 3D printable STL files are available along GitHub Hera, unitedly with the OpenSCAD source files for the parts that I created: https://github.com/vector76/mpcnc-creature-changer
A note on licensing: The MPCNC is discharged with a NC (noncommercial) permit that restricts the sale of printed parts but does non restrict other commercial function. Some of the parts in this design are derived from those parts and consequently come into the Tar Heel State restriction. All parts that are non derived from MPCNC parts shall give a CC-Past-SA license.
Supplies
You mustiness wealthy person a working Primo "J" CNC machine.
You will need a 3D printer and to a lesser degree one kilo of PLA filament, or a friend with a 3D pressman.
For the tool changer you will need:
- 5mm metal rod
- 3mm metallic element rod
- 8mm balls
- #6-32 machine screws and #6-32 nylon nuts
- #6 x 1/2" sheet metal screws
- Piano wire, 0.032" (used for preload springs)
- Piano wire, 0.047" (used for making servo pushrods)
- Sportfishing line, Dyneema 50 lb tes
- Loctite "patrician"
- CA paste
- Hot glue
- 1" OD pipe, 7.75 inches or 197 mm
You will also need these items below which are supernumerary copies of parts that are already necessary for the MPCNC Primo establish, soh if you are building from scratch, you can buy extras to be prepared for the tool around record changer build.
- 5/16" bolts, 1.5" long and nylon-inclose lock nuts
- 608RS bearings
- M5 x 30mm bolts and nylon-insert lock nuts
- M3 x 10mm bolts
- 1x NEMA 17 motor
Also, not necessary but strongly recommended is to build an entire separate Z axis that can be swapped out, quite than cannibalizing your existing Z axis. This testament command:
- 1x NEMA 17 motor
- 1x Spark advance jailer
- Lead screw coupler
- 2x extra Z vilify, 16 inches lank or 406 mm
- Extra copies of parts from MPCNC Primo: "z motorial" and "z coupler"
You will need some plywood from which to cut the whirligig plate, which has a diameter of just under 16 inches, or 406 mm.
The 3D printed parts you will necessitate are:
- motor_mount.stl 1x
- dw660_hanger.stl 2x (one for each tool)
- tool_hanger.stl (non required, used for test fitting hangers onto hooks)
- tool_parking.stl 2x (one for all tool)
- base_roller.stl 3x
- base_roller_cap.stl 3x
- cap_bearing_holder.stl 1x
- cap_bearing_struts.stl 1x
- carousel_corner_post.stl 1x
- carousel_gear_motor.stl 1x
- carousel_gear_wheel.stl 1x
- universal_tool_plate.stl 2x (one for each creature)
- core_addon_short.stl (not reqiured, potentially handy to win over back to "short" center assembly without flipping it over again)
- core_addon.stl 1x
- back_plate.stl 1x
- servo_bracket.stl 1x
- pulley-block.stl 2x
- tool_plate.stl 1x (used for test-fitting)
- plate_b.stl 1x
- plate_a.stl 1x
- drill_guide.stl (not required but potentially William Christopher Handy for drilling 3mm yap in 5mm gat)
- wire_string_link.stl 2x
You will also need some surplus MPCNC parts of the previous version:
- 2x "Nut Trap Burly.stl" from here: https://WWW.thingiverse.com/affair:1671517/files
- "660_Upper_Mount_V1.STL" and "660_Low_Mount_V1.STL" from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:944952/files (the "lock" parts are non obligatory)
Step 1: Build MPCNC Primo "J"
If you haven't already, you must complete the MPCNC before proceeding with the tool changer build. You do not lack to live struggling with the tool record changer and the underlying machine at the same time.
To build the MPCNC you throne source your own electronics and ironware and print your own plastic parts, or you can buy some or all of the machines from V1 Engineering. Either way, instructions are somewhat comfortable to follow and help is available on the V1 Engineering forums.
To reiterate, for the creature auto-changer to be compatible, you must fles the Primo (not the earlier variants) and it must be the "J" different that uses tubes with 1" (25.4 mm) outside diameter.
Also it is recommended, and this Instructable assumes, that you build a second separate Z axis to replace the classical Z bloc, kinda than cannibalizing the Z axis of rotation for the tool changer. This provides the option of switching game to standard tool mounts for non-tool-dynamic jobs.
Step 2: Adjust Firmware and Ray-flash
Victimization the standard V1 CNC firmware (as of version 504) only two changes need to be made to support the tool changer:
- Enable at least one servo. This near the bottom of Contour.h band NUM_SERVOS to 1 or Sir Thomas More.
- Define Extruder steps per unit to 177.777. This can besides comprise achieved via gcode M92 E177.777. Save with M500. (If you are using 1/16th microstepping then use 88.888 steps per building block (degrees) via M92 E88.888.)
To minimize strain along the carousel, set E quickening to 30 degrees per second per second. Use the gcode command M201 E30. Save with M500.
Assuming you are not victimization an unusual stepping motor, all but NEMA17 steppers undergo 200 stairs per rotation, which at 1/32 microstepping yields 1/6400 microsteps per revolution. At 360 degrees / 6400 steps, the resolution is 17.777 stairs per point of rotation of the motor. The voluminous wheel has exactly 10 multiplication the dentition of the immature wheel, so steps per degree of the luggage carrousel scale is 177.777.
Step 3: Cut Carousel Plate
Cut out plywood wooden carousel denture from carousel_plate.dxf. This does not need to be high precision, and IT could be done with a written paper guide and hand tools, merely since you get a CNC motorcar, you power every bit swell use it to cold shoulder this piece. If the machine is partially disassembled, information technology may non be feasible to cut out this part later, so it's recommended to cut it away freshman.
Step 4: Build Cleats and Bushings
Cut 2 5mm rods to 26mm distance.
Cut cardinal 3mm rods to 13mm length.
Drill a 3mm hole in the 5mm rod that is 4mm from one end and 22 millimetre from the other conclusion.
It can make up rather tricky to drill a hole that is centered and normal. The written parting drill_guide.stl is intended to assistance. Plastic makes a unfortunate drill pass around because it cannot plunk fo the sidelong forces of the drill bit wandering to the side. To properly use the drill guide, employment or s other material like wood, Al, or steel. Steel is shown. Drill a 3mm maw in the steel. Then align the hole in the steel with the hole in the bore guide. Once aligned, secure the steel to the plastic drill guide. And so drill from the metal side (non the plastic side) thus that the metal supports the Mandrillus leucophaeus bit from rambling laterally.
Fit the 3mm rod in the 3mm hollow. Center IT with equal length sticking out each slope. Apply blue Loctite and twist / move the 3mm rod gently to allow it to wick into the gap. Wipe away unneeded Loctite and set aside to harden.
The bushing/pulley (pulley.stl) must accept the 5mm rod but depending on the printer, information technology may be a stringent fit. It power be necessary to ream the hole to personify 5mm in size.
Information technology is fairly smooth to make a "juice reamer" for plastic using many supernumerary 5mm rod. Using an angle submarine sandwich or a hacksaw, cut one or two notches in the side at the end of the rod. This need non be a sharp cutting edge, but when utilized in a big businessman drill information technology is efficient at scraping the inside bore until the hole is 5mm in diam. This home-brewed reamer is also used in a later step.
Step 5: Tie String Onto Pulley
Shredded four lengths of string at to the lowest degree 425 mm each. (Excess duration will be cut off later.) Thread each string through the pulleys and splice as shown.
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Thread from after-school to inside and out the 'back' (the back is the side without the protrusion).
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Then thread through the muddle from back to foremost.
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Then thread through the unusual hole from front to back.
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Tie a figure-8 stopper knot near the free the end of the string.
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Extract the stopper international nautical mile tight.
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Tie an overhanded knot around the loop. This effectively produces a slipknot direct the two holes in the block.
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Pull firmly on the opposite remnant to tighten the curl. The slipknot volition tighten up round the holes in the pulley.
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Pull very rugged along the string and the overhand knot volition slip toward the free end of the string. It will slip until IT reaches the show-stopper mile and it won't move some promote.
Repeat three more times for three other string section much that both pulleys each hold two string section attached.
Aft the pulleys have strings attached, place 608 bearings on the cylindrical lining and inset the 5mm/3mm metal cleat into the central bore.
Step 6: Assemble Tool Changer Plate and Mental testing Blank
Cut six pieces of ricoche electrify (0.032" diameter) to length of approximately 61 mm. Install into holes in "plate_b.stl" as shown.
Use a flat level of CA paste to glue the flat side of "plate_a.stl" to the flat side of "plate_b.stl".
Install 6 balls into "tool_plate.stl". Squeeze tightly with pair of pliers or hit hard with a hammer to ensure the balls are fully sitting. If the region is printed properly, the balls should remain in place without mucilage. The side opposite the ball bearings has the ramp feature for testing the ability to grab.
Step 7: Set Tension (Preload) by Setting Length
Install cleat/cylindrical lining assembly into plate (without back off).
Place test unloaded onto plate. Adjust rod axially within bushing until cleat profundity is 'just outside' to engage the rage at approximately a 30-degree angle when turned gently with your fingers.
This would be the final position if no preload were applied. The desired preload is 3mm from this position. This means the cleat should be glued into the bushing retracted by 3mm from this position. Even though information technology is effectively "too short", it will be pressed forward to the correct depth aside an adjustment screw in a later step, and this is what produces the preload.
Bump off cleat+bushing assembly from plate. Metre deepness. Retract by 3mm and mark position. Then use CA glue to fix permanently in station at the marked position.
Repeat for the other cleat meeting place.
Maltreat 8: Install Cleat Assemblies Into Plate and Plate Into Z Axis
Install cleat/bushing assemblies into plate and thread cords around pulley and direct the openings. Tape string in situ to preclude it from coming off of the pulleys.
Install plate onto Z axis rails victimization #6-32 hardware. This requires the "Strapping" nut traps which conciliate #6-32 nuts. The standard Best method uses M5 nuts and bolts, but the screw heads are too large.
Step 9: Install Back Plate and Adjust Depth
Install collection plate back using tetrad #6 sheet metal screws.
Install ii M3 registration screws in the center two holes, which are directly hind end the cleats. By adjusting these M3 screws, the cleats are pressed forward.
Adjust the depth using the M3 screws and turn the cleats by pulling on the string. The depth is position correctly when the cleat begins to engage the incline at approximately a 30 degree tip. Expected to the detrition from the M3 piece of tail pressing on the indorse of the metal rod, it will take a bit of force to deform the cleats, but it should still be apparent where the cleats engage the mental test photographic plate.
Whole tone 10: Create Pushrods, Attach to to Servo, and Install Servo Into Z Axis
With a servo enabled in the firmware and wired properly, move to 0 and 120 exploitation commands "M280 P0 S0" and "M280 P0 S120" to confirm the range of motion.
If necessary, adapt servo horn such that it is intimately parallel to the body of the servo when in perspective "M280 P0 S0". Bill: IT should spread ou counter-right-handed when moving from S0 to S120, and dextral when stimulating from S120 to S0.
Create pushrods by cutting pushrod wire (thick wire of 0.047" diameter) to approx. 115mm in length and bending as shown. The "Z" shaped end will inhere in the servomechanism horn and the "L" shaped end will come with the part "wire_string_link.stl". Government note that the L-shaped bend is not quite an 90 degrees. This is deliberate. The length of the "L" part must comprise between 8 and 10mm.
Install L-shaped bend in the wire into the electrify-string link and press into the canal. If necessary, use a screwdriver to press the wire into the communication channel. It should positively snap into place without any play. Set u the 'chapiter' by sliding terminated the Z-bend and snapping into place connected the end of the wire-string link. This may be overkill but is supposed to prevent the wire from approaching out of the transfer.
Install Z-bends of pushrods into servo automobile horn.
Install servosystem into servo bracket.
Confiscate servo bracket onto Z axis victimisation #6-32 screws and nuts.
Step 11: Attach Pulley Strings to Wires (via Wire-String Link)
Orient cleats horizontally. This is the 'disengaged' position. Move the servo to the "10" position victimisation command M280 P0 S10. With kid gloves thread the string through with the hole out in the stop of the wire-string link. Feed through double for a routine of extra security.
Then fertilize through the mess in the side, and then wrap or so the "pincher cleats". These are similar in spirit to the old, close notches in spools for holding thread in site (shown for reference), except that by having multiple petty v-shaped grooves and multiple wraps, it privy hold very securely, and no knots are indispensable. Wrap around at least twice through each notch.
Repeat for the else 3 strings to secure both strings for both pulleys. Visualize the direction that the servo will deform when rotating from "disengaged" to "engaged", and assure that the strings are affiliated sol that the cleats will turn the same direction.
Ensure string section are tight. If string section are non tight, Beaver State if cleats are non at the one angle when in the unlocked position, unwrap and re-wrap so that they are. This may necessitate 3 or 4 attempts to get right.
Move servo in small increments using M280 P0 S<position> to determine the ideal locked and unbolted positions. Get down these positions for reference.
Test locking and unlocking using the test plate. This uses the same dental plate that was used in mount the profundity. Confirm that the servo can snaffle the test plate and release IT.
Step 12: Flip Core and Install Z Axis
Installation the Z axis into the MPCNC requires a adapted core that is taller than the standard Primo core. The reason for this is so the Z bloc can reach excess high. Without this extra tiptop, information technology is problematic for the tool carousel to reach the tool changer mechanism while still clearing the slope rails.
The modified core is achieved past flipping the standard core upside-dispirited and and so adding an extender connected top off. The standard pith is more often than not symmetrical but has a rim with holes for mounting extra things along the bottom. When flipped, these mounting holes are used to untroubled the telephone extension.
Afterwards removing the standard Z axis, dispatch the leadscrew nut from the top of the standard core. Loosen the gantry rail and slide them unstylish axially to free the core.
Swap the location of the Y-bloc clamp to the proper location. This is optional merely without this you will lose a bit of workspace in the Y direction. Reinstall core inverted.
Install six bearings into the heart and soul extension in the unvarying agency that bearings were installed on the monetary standard core. Leave the outside bolts loose for now. Install extension on top of the regular core. Use M5 bolts and kooky to loosely impound the extension.
Install the Z axis through every the bearings in the core and extension. One time the Z axis is in place, constrain down the Z axis bearings of the elongation. Past stiffen down the M5 bolts attaching the flanges together.
Step 13: Mount Tools Into Tool Holders
(Currently just mounting parts for the DW660 have been created.)
Mark the generic tool mount "universal_tool_plate.stl". Install six ballock bearings into the sockets and squeeze firm with pair of pliers or pound with a hammer to see they are to the full seated. Mark the Burly mount for the DW660 parts, 660_Low_Mount_V1.stl and 660_Upper_Mount_V1.stl. (The "lock" pieces of the standard DW660 mount are not necessity.)
IMPORTANT: the lead of the locking cleat, specifically the tip of the 5mm perch, may collide with the DW660 mounts and prevent engagement to the proper depth. If this happens, the mechanics stern jam when it attempts to splay, which can break things. To forbid this from happening, bore 1/4" holes into the DW660 mounts right away 'tween the adherence screws. You may drill 3/8" holes if you want to be extra prophylactic.
After the holes are drilled, sequester these parts to the universal tool dental plate.
The "dw660_hanger.stl" voice takes the place of the "Lock" pieces of the DW660 mount and also includes features for hanging the tool in its parking touch. Print this composition and use it to secure the DW660 in invest. Unfortunately, this piece requires a lot of support to print properly.
Maltreat 14: Replace Corner Top With Carousel Holder Post
Loosen both bang holders on front-leftish corner and remove X whack holder from corner. Remove corner top and replace with carousel_corner_post.stl. Reinstall belt holders and retighten belts.
Install 25.4mm tube into corner post and set u unrivaled #6 mainsheet metal screw to secure. This does not need to be extremely tight; it just needs to dispatch play (if whatsoever).
Set up large gear wheel (carousel_gear_wheel.stl) onto niche post and use three #6 canvass metal screws to sequester to the corner brand. Be sure that the screws enter first through the hole in the pitch wheel and then secure into the holes in the corner Charles William Post. (The cogwheel holes are oversized so as to not lease the threads, and the corner post holes are smaller, so they cause engage the duds.)
Install cap_bearing_holder.stl onto the round top of the electron tube and install a bearing onto the carriage holder.
Step 15: Assemble and Install Roundabout Plate
Attach the "skyrocket" objet d'art (cap_bearing_struts.stl) to the carousel plate, attempting to get it about centered. Use six #6 sheet metal screws to attach the arugula to the carousel plate.
Place built merry-go-round shell and rocket onto the luggage carrousel post. The bearing at the top of the carousel post should match snugly within the tapered 'scent out' of the roquette.
Install a bearing into apiece of the small base_roller.stl pieces and use of goods and services a #6 screw and a base_roller_cap.stl piece (basically a washer) to firmly secure. Use #6 screws to attach these rollers around the base of the rocket to roll against the metal underground and hold the luggage carousel plate horizontal. Adjust as necessary until the plate is horizontal and the bearings are tight against the tube so there is no play. It may be right-hand to firmly tap the rollers toward the center underground to suffer a tight tally. I ill-used a wrench as shown because it's heavy enough and it's flat.
Step 16: Install Carousel Stepper
Install the carousel_gear_motor.stl onto the high stepper motor. Use two #6 screws to stiffen the paraphernalia onto the stepper shaft. Avoid cracking the plastic if possible.
Place the stepper into the motor_rigid_mount.stl bracket with the gear pointing downfield. Employ cardinal #6 drive in to gently tighten the strap close to the motor and slide the efferent downward until it is at the becoming elevation to engage the larger wheel gear.
Holding the gear so that it engages with the wheel gear, mark the location of the mount holes. Drill archetype holes into the wood and secure the motor mount to the carousel plate. Twist the carrousel complete the way around to sustain that the motor engages the pedal gear properly all the room some.
Attach extension wires if necessary and touch base the stepper to the E0 extruder stepper port wine on the panel.
Assumptive you let flashed the firmware as described in the earlier footstep, check that the carousel rotates by the proper amount by entering G1 E90 F300 and check that it rotates by 90 degrees at a reasonable speed.
Step 17: Install Tool around Parking Spots
Print one tool_parking.stl for each tool around and cut three segments of 5mm rod, with a duration of 20mm each. The segments of rod cell will act American Samoa maulers for the tool to hang connected.
The rods may have difficulty fitting inside the written part, since written parts tend to take inaccurate golf hole sizes. If needful, use the 5mm reamer to enlarge the hole for the 5mm rod to fit. Bevel the ends of the rods to survive somewhat more tolerant of misalignment, and then glue the rods in put across using CA glue.
Order the parking nobble such that it hangs somewhat off the edge of the disc. Drill pilot holes and use four #6 screws to secure the parking hook to the carousel plate.
Put back the tool on the parking hook and gradually be active the instrument change mechanism up to the user interface to check if information technology is aligned decently and perpendicular. Shim the corners of the parking spot as necessary to align the tool transfer mechanism with the tool.
Double this step for apiece tool.
Step 18: Manually "Home" Machine and Measure Offsets
Jog car to the position to operate the first tool around (while parked
in the first parking spot). Perform G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 to down this as the zero position to measure other offsets relative to this position.
(Do not engage servo to catch up puppet. We're just measuring position offsets.)
Disengage tool by taking possession +X and +Y direction with G1 X50 Y50 F300.
Slowly rotate tool with G1 E F20 until the indorsement joyride is approximately seamed up with the tool mount. Slowly move tool mount toward the tool and adjust the rotation to engage the tool rise with the second joyride. Some Z readjustment power be necessary depending on the somatic alignment.
Once the second tool is seated, determine the offset from the first instrument past issuing the command M114 and recording the position. Duplicate for any additive tools, recording for each creature the position proportionate to the primary tool.
In my case the X offset was 4, the Y offset was -2, the Z beginning was -1, and the E setoff was -69.18.
Also immortalize the angle (E value) required to rotate the empty subdivision of the carousel wheel into lay. This maximizes the working space and reduces the chance of collision with other parked tools. In my case this offset was +70 (or close enough).
To use a workspace proportional to the workpiece while also
having the ability to pick improving and drop off tools, use two workspaces, one for tools and one for changing tools:
- G54 is the workspace for mounting and unmounting tools, with X=0 Y=0 Z=0 E=0 corresponding to engaging the initiative tool
- G55 is the workspace relative to the workpiece
Note: this is a easy method that does non account for offsets between tools when mounted.
Delimitate these scripts for parking and unparking each tool:
Call for joyride 0:
G54 G1 X100 Y100 Z0 F1200 ; move tool wax stroke from parking spot G1 E0 F300 ; rotate tool into place G1 X8 Y8 F1200 ; move close to picking up the tool G1 X-0.5 Y-0.5 F300 ; easy insert locking cleats into tool around G4 S0 ; set not engage servosystem before movement finishes M280 P0 S110 ; engage cleat using servo G4 S3 ; wait for servo to finale crusade G1 X7 Y7 Z10 F200 ; raise awake and out diagonally at 45-level angle G1 X100 Y100 Z0 F1200 ; move away from puppet parking spot G1 E70 ; rotate disc impossible of the way G55
Drop off tool 0:
G54 G1 X100 Y100 Z0 F1200 ; move tool mount diagonal from parking spot G1 E0 F300 ; circumvolve tool into lay out G1 X7 Y7 Z10 F1200 ; move aft (No offset needed) G1 X0 Y0 Z0 F100 ; slowly place back onto pins G4 S0 ; don't move servo until preceding movement finishes M280 P0 S0 ; disengage servo G4 S3 ; wait for servo to finish disengaging G1 X100 Y100 Z0 F1200 ; go back come out
Elate tool N (includes offsets measured above)
G54 G1 X<100+offset> Y<100+offset> Z<0+offset> F1200 G1 E F300 G1 X<8+offset> Y<8+offset> F1200 G1 X<-0.5+offset> Y<-0.5+offset> F300 G4 S0 M280 P0 S110 G4 S3 G1 X<7+offset> Y<7+offset> Z<10+offset> F200 G1 X<100+offset> Y<100+offset> Z<0+offset> F1200 G1 E70 G55
Drop dispatch tool N:
G54 G1 X<100+counterbalance> Y<100+offset> Z F1200 G1 E F300 G1 X<7+offset> Y<7+offset> Z<10+offset> F1200 G1 X Y Z F100 G4 S0 M280 P0 S0 G4 S3 G1 X<100+offset> Y<100+offset> Z<0+offset> F1200
Enter these commands one by one on the console, checking after all single that the behavior is correct. Be particularly careful when engaging the mesh mechanics M280 P0 S because if the instrument is not fully engaged it can jam the mechanism and break whatever parts which leave have to be disassembled, Ra-printed, and re-assembled.
Step 19: Sneak in Scripts Into Job at Joyride Changes
The overall work flow to cut a job would work as follows:
- Using Spinal fusion or EstlCAM surgery your preferent CAM program, generate toolpath containing T0, T1, TN commands to switch 'tween tools.
- At the first tool change dominate, replace Tx with the command to pick up the appropriate puppet.
- At every subsequent tool change, replace the Tx command with the command to degenerate off the previous tool and pick up the new puppet. (Ideally this would Be automated with a postprocessing script, but I haven't implemented this yet.)
- At the end of the gcode, enclose the script to unload the end tool that was used.
- Before executing the job, "Home" the simple machine by jogging the tool changer in X, Y, Z, and E so that it engages the first joyride, like was done in the previous stride. Do G54 so G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 to set this as the zero location of the G54 workspace.
- Cream up the first tool by executing the "pick up tool around 0" script.
- Jog to the blood of the workpiece.
- Perform G55 and then G92 X0 Y0 Z0 to set this A the zero location of the G55 workspace.
- Drop cancelled the first joyride by executing the "drop off tool 0" script.
- Action the gcode.
Unfortunately there is currently no mechanism to home the carousel. Homing the machine is possible and absolute coordinates would simplify the time-consuming and error-prone manual alignment of the tool modifier and carousel. I seaport't yet installed endstops for homing so I give notice't yet do this on my machine.
Measure 20: Measure Mounted Per-tool Offsets
The above methodological analysis assumes the tool location is identical regardless of which tool is adorned. This is roughly but not just correct for fourfold tools of the same type, like the DW660. For dissimilar tools like swapping 'tween a pen, a router, and a Dremel, the position may vary a lot between tools.
To compensate for the distinct tool positions, first measuring rod the positions relative to the first tool. This measurement can be accomplished using the G55 workspace. Mount the first tool and ramble to a reference point. Perform G92 X0 Y0 Z0 to set this as the zero location of the G55 workspace.
Then park tool 0 and go up tool 1. Jog the untested tool around to the like reference point. The spot might not represent X=0 Y=0 Z=0 like IT was for tool 0. Perform M114 to determine the relative position between tool 1 and tool 0.
Replicate for any other tools, and you have a postpone of offsets for the individual tools. These Book of Numbers are used as an good example to illustrate the process. You must use your own offsets as measured.
X offset Y offset Z offset Puppet 0 (G55) 0 0 0 Tool 1 (G56) -5 -6 -11 Tool around 2 (G57) -1 2 -5
Note that prescribed numbers mean that the gantry must be shifted in the positive X, Y, Oregon Z direction to achieve the unchanged powerful location. Negative numbers mean that the gantry must be shifted in the negative X, Y, or Z direction to achieve the same location as tool 0.
At once instead of simply doing G92 X0 Y0 Z0 to assign workspace coordinates comparative to the workpiece, usage a script that sets all workspaces:
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 ; localize origin of tool around 0 workspace G56 ; switch to instrument 1 workspace G92 X5 Y6 Z11 ; bent coordinates of puppet 1 workspace G57 ; switch to tool 2 workspace G92 X1 Y-2 Z5 ; set coordinates of tool 2 workspace G55 ; switch back to tool 0 workspace
Note that the G92 commands use the negated values from the board above. It can be persuasion of as a hypothetical question: if the gantry were in the like location but other instrument were loaded, where would the tool tip be congeneric to the origin?
Finally, the tool pickup scripts must live varied to switch to the fit workspace as an alternative of always switching to G55 (the hold out whole tone of the tool pickup arm script). Tool 0 switches to G55, tool 1 switches to G56, tool around 2 switches to G57, etc.
Step 21: Future Direction
These are additional features that would minimal brain dysfunction value but seaport't yet been implemented:
- Automatic homing. In particular, someways homing the carousel would be important.
- Switching power to the tools. A physiological switch mounted in the parking spaces together with M3/M5 could automatically sprain on the appropriate tool.
- Physical phenomenon connection to the tools. For a probe it would be nice to have an electrical link through the tool mount up rather than running an additive wire.
- Find tool climbing and halt if mounting fails. Currently if the physical connection is non made properly, thither is no way for the machine to accredit it.
- Extruders. Currently the carousel uses the E axis and sharing the E axis with an extruder would lead to problems. Perhaps the E axis vertebra respects workspaces and this is a non-issue but it would postulate to embody verified before this is old as multi-material pressman.
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Source: https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Automatic-Tool-Changer-for-MPCNC/
Posted by: jenkinsenswer.blogspot.com
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